by Tom Becker
It’s only natural to cook as per the weather. I mean, the seasons dictate what is fresh and available. It dictates flavor profiles; it demands a visual sense with textures and the need for warm comfort versus a crisp coolness. It’s fall and the weather is changing. Wait, the weather has been changing all year! Regardless, as the temps cool and the skies grey, I lean toward a pot of chili, a Coq au Vin or a bowl of minestrone. Soups and stews. And, as I sit at this keyboard and think about my favorite recipes, it makes me wonder, what are the origins of these liquid concoctions?
According to Soup Maker Guide, the earliest discovery of soup dates back to 20,000 BC with the discovery of ancient pottery with scorch marks suggesting the cooking of a soup on hot stones. It is suggested that it all began by using a hole in the ground, lined with animal skin, and water was brought to heat over hot stones. It is known that Neanderthals would boil bones and render fats to prevent a protein poisoning and it would then produce a drinkable broth. These soups were easy to digest and as civilization progressed, they adapted to the advancement of local surroundings and available ingredients. Amazon tribes were known to cook turtle in the turtle shells. Recipes for lamb and fish date back to the 4th century in Roman recipe books and by the 14th century French Chef Taillevent wrote of stews and ragouts.
Simply put, with the discovery of fire we learned how to boil water. We boiled bones, added vegetables, roots and grains and created a filling nutrient. We then began cooking meats in this “soup” and discovered that cooking wild game and sacrificial animals, such as oxen, in water would tenderize the meat. Thus, we learned to braise, and this method of cooking produced a much more tender result than roasting the same meats over fire. While not understanding it, this was the beginning of the science of cooking, and it all began as a soup.
Personally, I prefer a heartier soup. Sure, French Onion is a classic and stylistic favorite, but as summer turns to fall, there’s something about a good bowl of chili. And chili has an interesting history of its own. Texas claims to be its home, made popular by the Chili Queens in the early 1900’s in San Antonio and served as street food, but historically chili is from South America. The term “chili” is simply short for Chili con Carne, chilies with meat. Now the real question, beans or no beans? In Texas, no beans and no tomato. But it really depends on where you’re from. As a regional dish, in Ohio it’s served over a plate of spaghetti, both with and without beans; Michigan, no beans and served over a hot dog, the original Coney; green chilies and pork in New Mexico, and in Chicago, it includes meat, beans, tomatoes, beer, spices and it’s topped with sour cream and cheese. Chicago, from big pizza to big chili.
From Texas and based on the Cattle Drive History:
4 – 6 Servings
2 ½ Pounds Beef Round Steak – ½” cubes 2 t Packed Brown Sugar
2 C Seasoned Flour (S&P)
1 Clove Garlic – mince 2 t Cumin
3 T Oíl – Canola or Vegetable S&P to taste
10 – 12 oz. Beef Stock 2 Bay Leaves
1 ½ C Water 1 – 4 oz. Can Diced Peppers – mash
2 t Dry Oregano – crush 2 T Corn Meal – as needed to thicken
- Lightly toss the cubed steak in seasoned flour and shake-off. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat to a shimmer.
- Brown the beef in batches, remove and add more beef until it is all nicely browned, do not burn.
- Add additional oil, as needed and lightly sauté the garlic, 1 minute and add back the beef.
- Stir, cook 1 minute and add the stock, water, oregano, sugar cumin, S&P and Bay. Stir well and reduce heat to a simmer.
- Cook until the beef is tender, about 1 ½ hours and adjust the liquid with additional stock if needed.
- Add the peppers and the cornmeal and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Remove the Bay and adjust the flavor as necessary. Serve the chili over cornbread, if desired and garnish with chopped cilantro.
Classic Chicago-Style Chili (Because that’s where I’m from)
10 – 12 Servings
¼ C Olive Oil 1 T Dry Thyme
1# Ground Beef 28 oz. San Marzano Tomatoes
2# Italian Sausage 12 oz. Beer (I prefer Stout)
2 C Onion – dice ¼ C Tomato Paste
7 T Chili Powder Sour Cream – as needed - Garnish
1 T Dry Oregano Grated Cheddar – as needed – Garnish
- Heat oil in a Dutch Oven, over medium heat to a shimmer. Add the onion and garlic and stir for 1 – 2 minutes, do not brown.
- Add the meats and cook until lightly browned. Break the meat up as it cooks. Add the spices, herbs, tomato paste and cook stirring 10 minutes.
- Add tomatoes with juice, beer and cocoa powder. Simmer, stirring for 30 minutes.
- Add the beans and cook for 10 minutes.
- For the best flavor, cool and refrigerate overnight and reheat the next day. Serve topped with Sour Cream, grated Cheddar and chopped scallions.
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